I install the Board in my robot car， I supply board power by Pin and I just expanded the screw holes a little。And now I start the board it’s light always shows green，but I can‘t connect it by usb and wifi. I set it mask mode still can’t connect it , just make board light flash green. What could I do ?
So what you can do is very easy… buy a new board. It looks like you murdered that one.
What ever gave you the idea that it would be OK to drill holes in a circuit board? There is a REASON why those holes are plated! You probably broke ground connections to some middle layers.
I would also suggest for your next board that you do NOT solder wires directly onto it. If the standard barrel jack plug extends too far out the back of the board, you can supply power via the low speed expansion port.
For your next board, you need to make sure that the hardware you obtain for mounting it is M2.5.
For god sake! What had I done! But whatever，thanks for your advice, I will be careful about those:joy:.
I agree that the board has probably been destroyed. However you might try attempting board recovery (probably won’t fix it but might offer clues about how badly damaged it is).:
Jump straight to step 3 and see if you get a VID/PID… if you do then go back and start from step 1 (which is mostly software setup). However don’t get excited if you do see a VID/PID… the shows the SoC is somewhat functional but there are many other components on the board that could have been damaged. However if you don’t see a VID/PID then you can be pretty confident with the “board is destoyed” diagnosis!
Actually, now that I think of it, there may be a way to repair the board… but its a long shot.
Get some flux, and flux up the inside of all 4 mounting holes. Get some braided wire (or desoldering wick!), pack it with flux, and stuff the wire into the mounting holes. Trim excess, but don’t try to make it flush.
Now apply solder at one side of each of those copper wire plugs until it soaks through to the other side. Your soldering iron will have to be set to nice and hot, and it may also be helpful to blast it with hot air if you have access to a heat gun.
Side effect of this is, of course, that there will no longer be mounting holes, but under the circumstances that’s a reasonable trade off.
I don’t see apparent damage except the mounting holes. You can do the following to do some basic checks.
- if you have USB to TTL cable, hook it up and check the serial console if any print
- If you have some power measure tool, such as a power source or a USB current monitor, you can check if there is current
- Touch the RK3399 after powering on for some time to check if it’s warm.
He drilled out the mounting holes, so any middle layer ground connection to any of those holes will be disconnected now… unless there are none. Do you have the board layouts available to check for connections there?
In any case, if it was working, then physically modified, then nothing else changed but now it doesn’t work, you can be very confident that the physical modification broke something. So even if the problem wasn’t middle layer ground connections being lost, the physical trauma to the board could have caused something else to break.